GR20 Day 5 Stage 12: Refuge D’Usciolu to Bocca di Verdi

  • Time- 8hr48 with rest
  • Distance-16.11km (10.00 miles)
  • Elevation-921 mtr (3021ft) ascent, 1472mtr (4829 ft) descent
  • Fun score
  • S- 2.5- Uncomfortable climb – very challenging physically
  • T- 1.75

Around 10pm that night T came down with food poisoning and had a dreadful night (see previous note on toilet situ). I wondered if we would have a rest day rather than continue.

T decided that he was able to push though to the next refuge which was supposed to be better. We started with an ascent which followed with a ridge section with multiple false summits. It was a brutal climb and I honestly don’t know how T managed it. With relentless multiple peaks and scrambling/ mountaineering not fun/ exhausting. This is not Marin County hiking as we know it, this is mountaineering -lite.

Middle 1/3 of the hike is to climb over the peak in the distance… yes, really!

We started discussing the idea of finishing at Vizzavona as it was becoming apparent that the Northern section of the hike was a lot more technical that the Southern section. We planned to map out the Northern stages looking at exit options, low routes and possibilities. No plans would be made right away. I wanted to keep an open mind.

We descended a technical ridge and passed through Refuge Di Prati where we refilled on water and continued to hike towards Bocca Di Verdi where we would stay for the night (and take a rest day).

We checked into the refuge and tried to book for dinner. They were full and had no space. I think I stood and stared at him for a few minutes in disbelief. I may have even tilted my head like a dog waiting for a different answer..At that moment our Brit/German friends arrived and offered up some of their dinner for us (their had brought their own food). We gratefully accepted.

The camp was ‘ok’ with showers and proper toilets with a flush (how modern).

We grabbed some wine from the refuge and ate dinner with our friends before heading to the tent.

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